Embroidery · Care Guide · The Swiss Laundry
Embroidery
care guide.
How to clean, press and store embroidered Indian garments. Zardozi, zari, mirror work, sequins, resham and threadwork — what damages each and what preserves it.
The embroidery is almost always more delicate than the base fabric. The care decision should be based on the most sensitive element — which is nearly always the embellishment, not the cloth beneath it.
The Swiss Laundry · Kasba, Kolkata · Est. 2013Indian embroidery types — and what each needs
Heavy metallic wire embroidery. Gold or silver wire tarnishes irreversibly in water. The weight of zardozi work on wet base fabric can tear at the thread anchor points. Dry clean only. Never attempt at home.
Woven or stitched metallic thread. Present in Banarasi, Kanjivaram and embroidered sarees. Water tarnishes immediately. Sweat accelerates tarnishing in storage. Dry clean after every wear before storing.
Small mirrors stitched into the fabric. Water causes rust around metal mirror edges — visible as brown marks on surrounding fabric. Once rusted, irreversible. Dry clean only.
Plastic or metallic embellishments. Hot water warps plastic sequins permanently. Washing agitation loosens threads and causes sequins to detach. Dry clean only.
Pure silk thread embroidery. On a cotton base with no other embellishments, careful cold hand-wash may be safe. On silk or georgette base — dry clean only. Risk of colour bleed in water.
Cotton thread on cotton base. Chikankari and Kantha on plain cotton can be carefully cold hand-washed. No machine wash — agitation loosens threadwork. Lay flat to dry. Iron from reverse side only.
What must always be dry cleaned
There is no ambiguity for these embroidery types. Any attempt to wash at home will cause permanent damage.
Zardozi and heavy metallic embroidery: Water tarnishes the metallic wire immediately and irreversibly. The weight of the embroidery, when wet, tears at the thread anchoring points. A heavy zardozi garment washed in water can physically delaminate.
Zari: Tarnishes in water immediately. Common in bridal and formal Indian wear. Dry clean after every wear before storing — sweat accelerates tarnishing in storage.
Mirror work: Water causes rust around the metal mirror frames within hours of drying, permanently marking the base fabric.
Sequins and beadwork: Hot water warps plastic sequins. Any agitation loosens the thread holding embellishments. A machine wash cycle can remove a significant proportion of sequins from a densely embellished garment.
Any embroidery on silk or georgette base: The base fabric requires dry cleaning regardless of the embroidery type.
Pressing embroidered garments — always from the reverse
Embroidered garments must always be pressed from the reverse side. This principle applies universally — cotton threadwork, silk resham, zardozi, mirror work.
Why pressing from the front damages embroidery: Direct heat and pressure applied to the embellishment side flattens metallic thread, warps or melts sequins, indents mirrors into the base fabric, and permanently crushes raised threadwork.
The correct home method: Lay the garment embroidery-side down on a thick soft surface — a folded towel works. Press from the fabric side at the appropriate temperature for the base fabric. The embellishments sink into the soft surface rather than being pressed against a hard board.
For delicate embroidery: Steam only from the reverse side without any direct iron contact. This is the safest approach for heavy zardozi or mirror work.
Stain treatment — embroidered garments
If any element of the garment requires dry cleaning, do not apply any home treatment to any part of it.
| Stain type | Immediate action | Do not |
|---|---|---|
| Oil / food on embroidered area | Blot surrounding fabric with a dry cloth, avoiding the embroidery. Dry cleaner within 24 hours. | Do not touch embellishments. Do not apply anything to zardozi or mirrors. |
| Water splash near metallic embroidery | Blot immediately with a completely dry cloth. Dry cleaner same day — tarnishing begins quickly. | Do not rub. Do not apply more water. |
| Loose thread or fallen embellishment | Do not pull. Keep in the bag with the garment. Dry cleaner will assess and address. | Do not pull, clip or attempt home repair — risks further unravelling. |
| Stain on plain section of same garment | Blot plain fabric with dry cloth. Dry cleaner — treat as a whole garment. | Do not spot treat — any liquid near embellishments risks damage. |
Storing embroidered garments — protecting the embellishments
Embroidery care — do and do not
- Dry clean all metallic, mirror, sequin and silk embroidery
- Press only from the reverse side on a soft surface
- Layer acid-free tissue over embellishments before folding
- Store flat — not hanging if heavily embellished
- Wrap in breathable cotton muslin
- Inspect embellishments annually
- Bring loose threads to the dry cleaner immediately
- Use silica gel during Kolkata monsoon storage
- Wash any garment with metallic, mirror or sequin embroidery
- Press from the embroidery side
- Press sequinned garments with any direct contact
- Machine wash embroidered garments
- Store without tissue between folds
- Store in plastic bags
- Pull a loose embroidery thread
- Apply water to metallic embroidery stains
- Store without cleaning first
Common questions
Questions.
Answered.
Zardozi, zari, mirror work, sequins and silk thread embroidery must be dry cleaned — permanently damaged by water. Plain cotton threadwork on a cotton base can sometimes be carefully cold hand-washed. When in doubt, dry clean.
Check the type: cotton threadwork on cotton — cold hand-wash possible. Silk or metallic thread, or silk/georgette base — dry clean only. Mirrors, sequins or stones — dry clean only. Inform the dry cleaner of the embroidery type.
Dry clean first. Tissue paper between all folded layers. Store flat — not hanging. Muslin wrapping. Silica gel during Kolkata monsoon. Inspect annually.
Zari and zardozi tarnish immediately and irreversibly. Mirror work rusts around the edges. Blot at once with a completely dry cloth. Dry cleaner same day — do not apply more water.
Only from the reverse side, on a thick soft surface such as a folded towel. Never from the embroidery side. Steam only (no contact) for sequinned garments. Professional pressing is recommended for all occasion wear.
Embroidered garments.
Preserved correctly.
Dry cleaning for all embroidered Indian occasion wear. Doorstep pickup across 30+ areas in Kolkata.