Pashmina · Care Guide · The Swiss Laundry
Pashmina
care guide.
How to wash, store, press and preserve pashmina shawls. What you can do at home and what requires a professional. Including specific advice for Kolkata’s 8-month storage period through summer and monsoon.
Pashmina is the finest grade of cashmere — the undercoat of the Changthangi goat, harvested at 12–16 microns. This extreme fineness gives it warmth, softness and drape — and makes it the most care-sensitive common garment in the Indian wardrobe.
The Swiss Laundry · Kasba, Kolkata · Est. 2013What is pashmina — and why it needs special care
Pashmina is the fine undercoat fibre of the Changthangi goat from the high-altitude regions of Ladakh and Kashmir. At 12–16 microns in diameter — finer than the finest Merino wool and far finer than regular cashmere — it is among the softest natural fibres in existence. The word comes from the Persian pashm, meaning soft gold.
The same fineness that gives pashmina its warmth-to-weight ratio and distinctive drape makes it uniquely care-sensitive. The fibres are protein-based, scale-surfaced and extremely responsive to heat, agitation and moisture — all of which can cause irreversible felting.
Can you wash pashmina at home?
The answer depends on the grade and composition.
12–16 micron fibre. Dry cleaning is the safe choice. If home washing is absolutely necessary: cold water only, pH-neutral wool wash, maximum 5 minutes soak, no agitation, no wringing — squeeze gently and dry flat. High risk of felting.
Silk component requires dry cleaning. Even if the pashmina could withstand gentle washing, the silk cannot. The two fibres react differently to water, causing distortion. No exceptions.
More resilient. Cold water, wool detergent, minimal agitation. Press excess water out gently — never wring. Dry flat. Still benefits significantly from professional cleaning.
Embroidery threads damaged by water. Silk or metallic thread embroidery and printed designs can bleed or distort. Dry clean regardless of base grade.
Dry cleaning pashmina — the professional process
Dry cleaning eliminates the risk of felting entirely by removing water from the process. The solvent dissolves oils, sweat residue and stains without any moisture contact with the fibres.
At The Swiss Laundry: every pashmina is inspected for stains, existing damage and areas of weakness before processing. Individual stains are pre-spotted with solvent agents appropriate for fine protein fibres. The shawl enters the drum in a fine mesh bag with minimal agitation. Post-cleaning, pressing is done with low-temperature boiler steam without direct contact.
How often to dry clean: After every 3–5 wears, or before storing for the season. A pashmina worn through a Kolkata winter accumulates sweat, skin oil and perfume residue across the collar and drape areas. If stored without cleaning, these residues cause yellowing and attract clothes moths — which are particularly attracted to fine protein fibres like pashmina.
Pashmina is stored in Kolkata for approximately 8–9 months — from February through October — through summer heat above 40°C and monsoon humidity above 85%. This is the longest and most challenging storage period for any fine fabric in India. Pre-storage dry cleaning is non-negotiable. Sweat residue from a winter of wear, if stored untreated, will cause permanent yellowing by the time the shawl is needed again.
Stain first aid — pashmina
The rule for any stain on pashmina: do not rub, do not apply water, blot with a dry cloth only, and bring to a dry cleaner as soon as possible.
| Stain | Immediate action | Do not |
|---|---|---|
| Food / oil | Blot excess with a completely dry cloth. Dry cleaner within 24 hours. | Do not rub. Do not apply powder or talc. |
| Tea / coffee / wine | Blot excess liquid only. Dry cleaner same day if possible. | Do not apply water. Do not rub. |
| Makeup / perfume | Do not touch. Dry cleaner promptly. | Do not rub or wet. |
| Sweat | Air for one hour. Dry clean before storing. | Do not store without cleaning. |
| Water spot | Blot immediately. Dry flat. Dry cleaner if watermark forms. | Do not apply more water. No heat to dry. |
Pilling — what it is and what to do
Pilling — small fibre balls forming on the surface — is one of the most common pashmina concerns. It is also widely misunderstood.
Pilling is normal on genuine pashmina. The ultra-fine fibres migrate to the surface through friction and tangle together. Counter-intuitively, pilling is more common on higher-quality pashmina — the finer the fibre, the more easily it migrates. A pashmina that never pills may contain significant synthetic content.
How to remove pills: Use a cashmere comb (a wide-toothed comb designed for this purpose) or a fabric shaver set to the lowest speed. Work in one direction only, with minimal pressure. Never use scissors or pull pills off by hand — this weakens the surrounding fibres and can create holes. Do not use mechanical tools near embroidered sections.
Pressing pashmina — steam, minimal contact
A well-stored pashmina rarely needs pressing. When it does, the method requires care.
The correct home method: Steam iron at the lowest silk or wool setting. Hold slightly above the surface — do not place the iron directly on the pashmina. Work from the reverse side. A damp undyed muslin pressing cloth between the iron and the shawl is the safest approach. Never press embroidered sections.
What to avoid: Never press pashmina while damp from washing — wet protein fibres at maximum vulnerability to heat damage. Never press at high temperature. A professionally dry-cleaned pashmina returns already pressed and ready to wear. Further pressing should rarely be needed.
Storing pashmina — 8 months in Kolkata
Pashmina care — do and do not
- Dry clean pure pashmina and pashmina-silk blends
- Use cold water only if washing pashmina-wool blends at home
- Use pH-neutral wool detergent
- Squeeze gently — never wring or twist
- Dry flat on a clean surface
- Fold for storage — never hang
- Pad fold lines with acid-free tissue
- Dry clean before storing for summer
- Use cedar or neem nearby to deter moths
- Use silica gel during Kolkata monsoon
- Machine wash — even on delicate cycle
- Use warm or hot water
- Wring, twist or rub
- Tumble dry under any circumstances
- Press while damp
- Iron directly — always through a cloth
- Hang for storage
- Store in plastic bags
- Store without cleaning first
- Use naphthalene mothballs against pashmina
Common questions
Questions about
pashmina care.
Fine pure pashmina should be dry cleaned. Pashmina-wool blends can be very gently hand-washed in cold water with pH-neutral wool wash — no agitation, no wringing, dried flat. Pashmina-silk blends must be dry cleaned. When in doubt, dry clean.
Use a cashmere comb or fabric shaver on the lowest setting, working in one direction. Never pull pills by hand. Pilling is normal on genuine pashmina — it indicates genuine protein fibres.
Dry clean first. Fold flat — never hang. Wrap in acid-free tissue then undyed cotton muslin. Cedar or neem nearby. Cool dark storage with silica gel during Kolkata monsoon months.
After every 3–5 wears, or before storing for summer. Never store without cleaning — sweat and skin oil causes yellowing and attracts moths over the 8–9 month Kolkata storage period.
Do not rub and do not apply water. Blot excess gently with a completely dry cloth only. Bring to a professional dry cleaner promptly. Fresh stains on pashmina are usually fully removable.
Your pashmina.
Cleaned correctly.
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