Woollen clothes
care guide.

Wool is a protein fibre — each individual fibre is covered in microscopic scales, like the scales of a fish or the barbs of a feather. Under normal conditions these scales lie flat. When wool is agitated in water — particularly warm or hot water — the scales open, catch on neighbouring fibres, and interlock. As the garment dries, the interlocked fibres tighten further.

This process is called felting, and it is irreversible. Once wool fibres have interlocked, they cannot be separated. The garment shrinks, the surface texture changes from soft and open to dense and matted, and the shape is permanently distorted.

Temperature matters enormously. Cold water dramatically reduces the risk compared to warm or hot water, because the scales open less at lower temperatures. But even cold water carries some risk with agitation — a vigorous hand-wash of a fine wool sweater can cause partial felting at the edges and collar.

This is why the care labels on most quality woollen garments specify dry cleaning. It is not a commercial instruction designed to increase dry cleaning revenue — it is a genuine technical requirement of the fibre.

Not all wool is the same. The fineness of the fibre, the construction of the garment, and the presence of any embellishment all affect which cleaning method is appropriate.

The professional dry cleaning process for wool follows the same general steps as for silk, but with different cycle parameters and pressing temperatures.

Inspection: The garment is checked for existing damage, pilling, moth damage, and stains. Loose buttons and fragile embellishments are noted. The fibre content and garment construction are confirmed — particularly important for suits, where the interlining material affects the cleaning cycle.

Pre-spotting: Individual stains are treated before the cleaning cycle. Wool is particularly prone to food and beverage stains in the protein category — these require enzymatic pre-treatment rather than solvent spotters, applied by hand before the machine cycle.

The cleaning cycle: Wool enters the drum with solvent on a cycle specifically designed for protein fibres — lower agitation, controlled temperature, shorter cycle time. This removes general soiling without stressing the fibre structure. The solvent is then extracted and the garment dried in gentle warm air.

Pressing: Wool is pressed through a damp pressing cloth (never direct contact) at a maximum of 150°C. Suits are pressed on a tailoring buck with a pressing ham for the shoulder and chest. Sweaters and shawls are pressed flat, not hanging. The result is a garment that has recovered its shape and hand-feel.

The answer for most wool garments is dry cleaning. But the picture has some nuance — particularly for everyday knitwear.

Wool responds well to steam — in fact, steam is the only effective way to restore the shape of a pressed wool garment. But the temperature must be controlled, and direct contact with a hot iron must always be avoided.

At home, if pressing is necessary: Use a steam iron on the wool setting. Always place a damp pressing cloth between the iron and the wool surface — never press directly. Work from the reverse side of the garment where possible. Keep the iron moving. Do not press a wool suit at home — take it to a professional.

Wool suits specifically: A wool suit should only ever be pressed professionally. The combination of outer fabric, canvas, interlining and lining requires different pressures and temperatures at different parts of the garment. The chest and shoulder require a pressing ham to maintain the three-dimensional shape — a flat ironing board cannot do this.

In India, the storage period for wool is substantial — typically six to seven months from March or April through to October or November. Incorrect storage over this period causes moth damage, yellowing, mould, and permanent crease marks.

Clothes moths (Tineola bisselliella) and carpet beetles (Anthrenus verbasci) are the primary insect threats to stored wool in India. Both are attracted to keratin — the protein in wool fibres — and both cause damage by consuming the fibre itself, leaving irregular holes that cannot be repaired.

The critical fact: Insects are attracted not to clean wool but to the organic residue on uncleaned wool — sweat, food stains and skin oil. A garment stored without cleaning is an insect invitation. A clean garment stored correctly is rarely attacked.

If moths are found: Dry clean the affected garment immediately — the heat of the solvent process kills larvae and eggs. Dry clean all nearby stored wool as a precaution. Thoroughly clean and air the storage area. Replace cedar blocks or neem leaves with fresh material. Do not return garments to the same storage location until it has been cleaned.

What works: Cedar (repels, does not kill), neem leaves (repels), lavender (mild repellent), regular cleaning and inspection.

What does not work as expected: Naphthalene mothballs (effective but chemically harmful to wool and humans over time — avoid), sealed plastic bags without desiccant (traps moisture — creates mould instead of preventing moths).

Kolkata's climate presents specific challenges for wool storage and care that differ from Northern India, where wool care is more widely written about. The primary issues are sustained heat and humidity rather than cold and dryness.

The Kolkata winter (November–February) is mild by wool standards — temperatures rarely fall below 12–13°C. This is sufficient to require wool, but the wear period is short. The result is that Kolkata wool garments are stored for longer than worn, which makes pre-storage care critical.

The transition period (February–March) is when wool should be cleaned and stored. Temperatures rise quickly in Kolkata — garments stored at 20°C in February may be sitting in a 35°C+ room by April. High temperatures accelerate the oxidation of sweat residue on stored wool, causing yellowing that deepens and becomes permanent over the summer months.

The monsoon period (June–September) is particularly challenging. Wool is hygroscopic — it absorbs atmospheric moisture readily. A wool sweater stored in a humid room absorbs moisture from the air, creating a damp microenvironment within the storage bag that encourages mould growth. Silica gel desiccant packets in the storage bag, replaced monthly, significantly reduce this risk.

The return-to-wear period (October–November) is the most important inspection point. Wool brought out of storage after the monsoon should be inspected carefully before wear. Air in shade for a full day. Check for moth damage, mould spots, and mustiness. Dry clean before wear if there is any doubt about the storage conditions — not doing so risks wearing a garment that is harbouring moth eggs.

A complete summary of the most important rules for wool care in India.